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Week 1
Really enjoyed the Nat's. It was the first time the wife has been. She kinda got into it.....after 3 days of cleanin' the '72 she started to realize just how cool this Mopar stuff really is! In fact she has set my time table for completing the '70....SHE wants it ready for the 30th anniversary...2000! A tall order indeed. The good thing here is that now, when I need that $300 this...or the $500 that...she may be a little more understanding....we'll see.
After looking at all those great cars the resto-urge was rekindled. This weekend I turned the first wrenches on the '70 RR.....dismantled, inventoried and bagged all parts and bolts from the firewall forward. To my pleasure, the door jambs, firewall, inner fenders, ect, are all solid as a rock....just surface rust in a few areas. A little sand and pressurized air and it will be like it was just assembled.
Also removed trim and underlying crap around the front and rear glass. The front offered no surprises....just the stress crack that was visible anyway. The rear, however, was another matter. There is nothing holding the bottom edge of the glass to the car. I've dealt with this before on a 'Cuda but had hoped I would not have to work this fix again.
All in all a very productive 1st weekend of work. For those interested I'll try to post my progress often. Doing so may even keep my enthusiasm up where it is now.
Hmmmmmm.......3 years....1083 days (as of 8/18). My wife says that sounds like plenty of time to her!
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Week 2
After a weeks soaking with Liquid Wrench the bolts holding the rear springs in place were removed as was the rear itself. This is not the original rear but an old 8 3/4 looking thing with big nuts holding the axles some how. When I first got the car I thought this rear was stuck under it just for mobility, but after crawling around it is obvious this rear was used for a long time. Anyhoo, had to cut the U bolts to separate the springs from the rear end. Interestingly, while I was under the car I found out that what I believed to be surface rust covering the underside was actually just rusty colored dirt and clay! Cleaners and a little brushing revealed the factory blue paint, just like the books say, sprayed from the outside in, about a foot or so, and then fading into bare metal. Also, the original undercoat is about a 3 feet wide shot right down the middle covering the tunnel. When I get the car on the rotisserie I will scrub it down good a take some good pictures.
The bottom of the gas tank was dent free and covered with this clay/dirt stuff. I had high hopes that it was in good shape topside so it could be reused. Well, to my surprise, under the pad was 90% shinny galvanized steel. Pretty lucky considering the trunk floors condition.
Ahh....the trunk floor. This car will be getting a full floor with extensions so no time like the present to cut out the old. I grabbed up the air hammer and panel ripper and went to work. I got the bulk center area out and "prepped" the areas outside the frame rails for removal next session. Poppin' all those spot welds is a task....but for reasons only you people could understand, I'm looking forward to it!
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Week 3
Half-a-day yesterday netted the removal of the remaining trunk floor... but not the extensions. I did have time to remove the filler panel between the rear glass and deck lid. It sure is bad at the lower edge of the glass but a fellow MMLer has come through with some good sheet metal for repair in this area
.
I did pick up a correct radiator this weekend, (.....956), one of the things that could have eluded me for some time.
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Week 4
No matter how hard I tried to maintain the outer's "complete" integrity, I ended up bending something.
My plan was/is as follows: (anyone who has an opinion on this PLEASE chime in)
Although the outer quarter skins are to be replaced I thought it best to keep them in place to align/fit the trunk floor and extensions against to insure that the outer skins would have the best chance of being in the right place. However...since ALL of the new panels are repops, would it be best to work them all together for best fit?
Another thing...the new quarters I have are full. Now I don't need the whole quarter replaced. I could get by with the area immediately around the wheel-well and the lower rears just up to the first crease. Should I go the full skin or "patch" in the areas I need. I'm leaning toward patches. I'm worried the more of the full panel I use the more off it is due to being a reproduction.
Anyhoo, removing the old extensions had it's good moment. You see, I'm like most of the backyard Mopar guys...I've goofed around with different cars over the years, a 340, a killer street 383, the 440 in the RR, you know, cars that aren't too tough to come by or play with. This HEMI body as been sittin' in the garage for several years and I guess I have lost track of just what I had. While separating the extension from the outer skin, all kinds of crap starts falling out on my lap...old bolts, a fishing sinker, a skeleton key and....a HEMI exhaust manifold gasket. Now when that gasket hit my lap I stopped, stared at it for a second and thought to myself.....this is real, you are really going to own a HEMI car when your done, something that I would never had believed 15 years ago. Well, maybe not a Kodak moment, but hit me kinda funny.....I guess you had to be there.
The balance of the time was spent removing what few interior pieces were sill in the car, mostly stuff related to the roof, and pulling out the old headliner. Anybody ever heard of finding a b-cast sheet in the headliner? I thought I had read that several years ago (my friends say I'm nuts...no way) so I had a glimmer of hope in finding one there. No....nothing but that rotted insulation crap.
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Week 5
Yep, cleanup time. About half-a-day spent finding a place for everything that wouldn't be messed with for a while.
Otherwise, I removed the brackets from the old trunk floor sections, ie tank hook bolt "receivers" and the spare holdown bracket. Of coarse these don't come with the new stuff and need to be retained. Also, I measured and marked all the body plug holes on the new trunk panels. This is where you see just how different the repop floors are from the originals. In fact the area of the trunk above the rear end that meets the interior floor is SO different I'm considering splicing the old section back in here. The jury is still out on that...would anyone ever know?
The rest of the garage time was spent rebuilding the carb on the '72. What I thought was a miss picked up at the Nat's turned out to be carb problems. A renew kit was just the ticket.
Got word this weekend that the rear window patch metal that I'm getting from a fellow MMLer is separated from the donor car and will be en route to me shortly. Will be looking forward to actually repairing something! My wife is getting funny looks on her face....she said "That sure is a lot of money to spend on a car just to cut it all up like that!"
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Week 6
The suspension removal was relatively uneventful although it took longer than I thought. All components such as ball joints, tie rod ends, ect, were pretty shot and I couldn't tell if they were the originals or not. I sprung for one of those upper ball joint sockets. A discount tool store here had them for $28...a lot less than the Snap-On truck.
The dried mud and clay on the underside seemed to protect some neat stuff like the paint daubs on various parts. Once cleaned of the grease and dirt, the torsion bars still retained a glossy black "dipped" looking coat with 1 brown daub on the right bar and two on the left. I'll take care while cleaning the front suspension parts in order to document whatever marks might still be there...not that I plan on replicating them, but just for some ones future reference.
I had been storing the dolly at my mother-in-laws house, in a detached garage, hanging from the roof trusses. It was time to bring it home. I had forgotten how big and heavy that thing was as I cut it loose and lowered it to the floor. The in-law lives about 2 blocks away, :( , and the only way to get it from house to house is to roll it through the neighborhood. Of coarse it does not roll strait...it fights you the whole way...I'm sure I look pretty silly walking thing for two blocks steering it with sticks attached to the front and back.
Whatever...the car is on the dolly. This allowed me to roll it away from the wall enough to remove the door on the drivers side. This door will be "reskinned". I picked up a NOS door skin a couple of years ago and hope to be able to do the job myself. Any accomplished "re-skinners" out there with some tips to make the job go smoothly? I think I remember an article in a magazine about doing this job...I'll have to hunt it down.
The only other progress was earlier in the week when a friend helped me pull the rear glass.
Its to the stage now where most work done from here on will be constructive instead of destructive. Maybe next week I will have actually REPAIRED something.
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Week 7
Had to work Saturday so time spent on the car was limited to Sunday, and even then my time was split between the task at hand and watchin' our Jaguars get beat :(.
On Wednesday I had received the piece of metal that I am going to use to repair the area at the foot of the rear glass. What I got was a large cutout that included the filler, the lower corners, which extend about 8" up the sides of the rear window, and about half of the package tray. My original plan was to separate the filler and install it as if it were one of those new replacements, and then just patch in what I needed after that. Well that's sounds real good, only after looking at what I would be patching in, I would just be welding everything right back together again. So I started trimming and prepping the "patch" to be put in as one big piece.
I must have spent an hour just trying to figure out what to leave on the patch and what to leave on the car. You see, the rust on the car extends to the back edge of the package tray area and the inner support "lips" in one corner. If you're familiar with the shape of the lower corners of the '68-'70 Bs, it gets pretty complex up under there with the shapes of the metal. There are several "layers" of metal that make up those areas.
Well, to make a long story longer, I pinned down what was what and got the patch trimmed up to the size I'll use. Now the attention will turn to the car and removing what will be replaced. The idea here is to cut out the bulk of what will be replaced, being careful not to cut outside the area the patch will replace, then fitting the patch in place and marking exactly what is to be removed, very critical as I will be butt welding most all splices.
As described at the beginning, It is not a pretty site right now in the ol' garage. Lucky for me the metal work, or the act of learning how to do it, is my most enjoyable part of this stuff....well maybe besides firein' up when they're done!
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Week 8
>My original plan was to separate the filler and install it as if it were one of those new replacements, and then just patch in what I needed after that. <snipped babbling>. So I started triming and prepping the "patch" to beput in as one big piece.<
I changed my mind! After digging around on the car for a while I determined that my original plan was the way to go. Treating each section, filler area, right corner and left corner, as seperate 'projects', the job will turn out much better.
It took an irritatingly long time to separate the corners from the filler of my 'replacement' piece. They(the factory) must have determined that the spot where the trunk lip sides meet the trunk lip at the filler was a critical stress focal point of some kind because there were no less than 8 spot welds and several puddles of brazing in a 6 square inch area. Of coarse, this area is not flat either...I took a well deserved nap after each was seperated. Knowing the same had to be done at the car, I moved on to something else...
Trimmed most of the rusted areas from the car around the rear glass that will be replaced. It looks a lot better now...alot less intimidating.
I wont be able to put any time into the RR this week or next weekend as I'll be getting ready to make the annual trek to the Lowcountry Mopar Show in North Chareston, SC. Our local club makes this show every year...those people up there really know how to put on the hog!
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Week 10
Sunday's work started with diggin' into that damn carb on the '72 again...@#%!$...it started acting up as I was parking the car on the return home from S.C. It's the factory carb for a '72 440 HP, a Holley, and it has an incredible design flaw internally. I was curious as to how many HP Mopars came with Holleys. Of coarse your 6 Pack/Barrels had 'em and some of your race HEMIs and....well....'72 HP 440s. I know why! I'm giving it one more chance...
The afternoon was spent grinding down spot welds and trimming to fit the rear filler panel. It ended up being a very long and tedious process.
After a good 4 hours pid'ling, I left it fitting pretty good, held tightly together with various vise grips.
I'm not happy with the corner repair pieces I have to work with. They can be worked but I'm toying with looking for better ones. While looking, I'll still work on these...maybe I'll surprise myself and do a good job on them. In the mean time, I'm going to turn my attention to the trunk floor. It will require the same test fit, remove, trim, hammer, test fit, remove, trim, hammer....ect. I'd like to have ALL of this stuff fitted and ready and then sand blast the whole area before welding in everything.
Spot weld cutter update....I called Eastwood to order a pile of the bits for the 'old' style cutter. I mentioned to the sales person about the bit I bought and how it didn't work for me. She said they sell a lot of those and she didn't recall too many complaints. I guess it's me...anyway, they took it back. I'm exchanging it for some of that "etching primer" in the quart cans...just to see. If it doesn't seem to be the right thing to use, I'll
let you know, then I'll go with the recommendation of the list.
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Week 11
Here in Florida, sandblasting in the heat sucks...90 degrees(this time of year, hotter in the summer) and wearing t-shirt, long sleeve over that, hood draped over the shoulders, long pants, leather gloves...you get the picture, and oh the mess. Needless to say I usually plan on doing a lot of blasting in one 'session'. It's not worth the trouble for just one or two things but the urge to have something look restored got the best of me.
After the cleanup I sprayed the blasted areas,(never blast large flat areas as the heat generated by the sand pounding the surface will warp it in a second), with that Oxy-Solve stuff to protect the bare areas from surface rust. I've always used and like that stuff.
Next I grabbed up the grinder and preceded to clean up the spot weld "chunks" left from removing the trunk floor. After that I used a hammer and dolly to put back into shape the areas of metal that were pulled out of position during the trunk removing 'frenzy'. All this has to be done before any attempt to fit the new trunk panels in.
Well the above took the entire day Sunday. Again, the stuff I'm doing now just seems to go on and on with no real visual progress at the end of a long days toil...but I know better. One day soon I'm going to look up and find a solid, rust free '70 RR...well, that's what I keep tellin' myself!
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Week 12
>It looks very respectable now with only a 6" or so area near the corner needing repair...an hours work.<
HA!
Got started on it about 11am Sunday. My method of repairing window channel type areas is a simple one involving cardboard "templates" of the replacement pieces. This patch was a 6" 'L' shaped area in the window channel of the rear filler panel. Since the piece needed to curve in two directions, it was made using two separated strips of metal, trimmed to shape individually. First step for me, after evaluating the repair, is to remove the rusted areas in as simply a shaped sections as possible, ie rectangular shapes with straight sides. This panel, removed from a donor car, is still connected to a portion of the package tray, which made it impossible to cut the rotted metal away from the good stuff underneath... with the tools I have anyway. I was forced to separate the panel from the 'tray' by drilling out the spot welds about half-way around... just enough to separate to two as to let me do my thing. Once done it was 4 strait cuts and no more rot.
Next is the process of cutting to shape strips of cardboard to the exact size and shape of the piece of metal you need for the area to be replaced. Most of the time this can be started by just pressing firmly a piece of cardboard against the cutout area to get an impression of the edges. Cut along the impression and, wha-la, instant template, or at least a start. The two I needed were relatively easy and took only a couple of tries to get a perfect fitting template. Now the trickier part. To transfer the shape of the templates to the sheet metal. The metal I have been using is the cutout sections of vans from the installation of custom side windows from a local conversion van company. These panels are about 2'x3' and are easy to work with. I just hold the
template down and scribe a line around it for cutting and trimming. I use whatever tool I need to get the piece cut out CLOSE to the scribed line, cutoff wheel, nibbler or even metal snips if required. After the piece is cut out I trim it to the scribe with the bench grinder. The first time it's test fitted will always yield a poor fit. The transferring and cutting process is not an exact science by any stretch. It's fit, mark and trim... fit, mark and trim... until the piece fits evenly and correctly. Warning!!!!...you can fit, mark and trim your piece until it's too small and doesn't fit any more... new piece and try again.
With both pieces fitting and looking right I clamped them in place for final measuring. The other end of the panel in intact so I compared the depth and angles and found my end was a little off. Fit, mark and trim, fit, mark and trim. Clamped it all back together, eyeballed the measurements again and we were good to go. Pulled out the mig and tacked the pieces in place, one final look over and then welded the joints with consecutive little 'dots' of weld, my way of keeping the heat down. Got a little carried away with "grinding" down the weld. I try to use the cutoff wheel which gives me a lot of control and little heat build up, but I
haven't mastered it yet. I always seem to end up with an unevenly ground down area... I don't like it. I will use some Marine Tex down in the inside 90 degree corner to seal it as I welded that joint from the backside.
I took pictures of each step and will have them posted by week #13. Keep in mind, these techniques have worked for me but may not be the easiest or best way. I am not a pro... I just play one on the internet!
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Week 13
Have you ever done something in this hobby that you were so proud of that you just wanted to share it with anyone... whether they knew what the hell you were talking about or not... like tweaking the timing and carb to get that radical motor to run like a top, and then to fill your wife in on all the details. Even though she looks at you smiling and nodding and you know she doesn't have a clue as to what your saying, it still is a great feeling to share the experience. That's how I felt after this weekends work.
What I had considered a monumental task turned out very good. I had mentioned that the donor lower rear corners for the rear window channel were in very poor shape and that I would work on them as "practice" while searching out some replacement pieces. Got up Sunday morning feeling very positive about rebuilding the bad areas from scratch. Started out by cutting away the "infected" areas... this left only the outer skin that is visible on the car. With my cardboard cut, trim and fit method, I proceeded piece by piece until, before I knew it, the corner was rebuilt... and it looked damn good.
The process took 5 small pieces to complete. Progressive pictures were taken of this and last weeks repair.
I'm very excited about this... after I repeat the work on the opposite corner, it will be time to weld in the repairs. This rear window thing has been a real thorn but with these pieces repaired and in place, the rest of the metal work is a breeze... well maybe a stiff breeze.
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Week 15
Week #14 was (uhummm....Huuaaaacckk, snort..) spent inside, on the couch, watching the boob tube. Caught some kinda bug (ah..ah..A-chew'-wah) that has slowed me down for a good two weeks. However, I did get out there this past Sunday to try to make some forward progress.
The momentum of the successful rebuild of the left, lower corner of the rear window edge carried me into an even better looking repair of the other side. You know how it goes, you always can see how things could have been done better. Though I didn't quite finish before the Jaguars game came on, it was looking real good. I learned that when working with several small pieces, it is good to pre-assemble some of the pieces together before attaching them to the main repair. I'm going on and on about this and it occurs to me that this kind of "repair" rarely comes up in you basic restoration. I'm sure most people would not settle for less than a perfect patch from an existing parts car. Hey, I agree, but these areas, rust free, are getting few and far between... we gotta do what we gotta do. I'll put this offer out to the MML.... If this patch is ever required by one of the members, I'll assist in the repair by supplying info to help, such as templates of pieces required... or just moral support.
Another area that will be cut out and replaced( I don't think I've mentioned it before) is the portion of the rear panel that holds the P-L-Y-M-O-U-T-H letters. Seems someone along the way wanted to erase any evidence of these letters ever being there by welding the holes up and warping the panel in the process. I've got a perfect replacement in the wings ready for the repair. I'll get that just before welding in the trunk floor so I'll be able to access it from inside the trunk.
After the second corner is finished There won't be much to do except sandblast the trunk and rear window 'channel'.... and weld in the corners, rear filler, and trunk. That should take us to... say... week #2567 or so!
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Week 16
Just for a change of scenery I grabbed up the trunk floor sections and did a little test fitting. I scraped all the remaining seam sealer from the entire perimeter of the trunk. There were a few remaining welds from the old floor removal that needed grinding down and some existing panel edges that needed hammer/dollying. The left panel fell into place so well that you'd a thunk it was NOS. The right side would have no part of that and made up for it by fitting a good 3/4" too far to the left. After a little trimming on two corners and some bending the lips where the panel meets the wheelhouse, I picked up about a half an inch in the right direction. One thing about this "B" body trunk... It's BIG. My previous "from scratch" trunk replacement was an "E" body...hell, those panels are half this size. Taking those panels in and out of the trunk for tweaking was no problem compared to these "quarter-panel" sized monsters. Couldn't quite put my finger on where the last quarter inch was gonna come from but I'll find it.
The trunk floor panels picked up some splotchy surface rust from sittin' around so I pulled out the Oxy-Solve and treated all pieces, including the extensions and tank brace. Next I pulled out the hole saw(s) to tackle that chore. There are several 1.75" holes, a few 1" holes, one .75"er and one 15/16". The saws I used the last time just wouldn't "cut it" this time around. A trip to the hardware store got me what I needed for metal. The 15/16" hole is going to be 1"... hey, they don't give those saws away! The .75' hole has to be... some kind tank vent goes through it. Never got to actually cutting the holes... after paying for the saws, I was afraid I'd scratch 'em!
After reading a post on some advise on quarter panel replacement, I'm going to install the trunk extensions in conjunction with the quarters... it made sense that any major misfitting between quarters and trunk could be made up there.
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Weeks 17 & 18
Anyway, no work done that week in the shop aside from replacing the old stereo out there with an even older one...this one includes an 8-track recorder!
Week #18 is a different story. Got back on the trunk floor to find where the extra .25" was gonna come from in order to get the proper alignment of the stiffening creases and center splice. Some trimming of the rear "shelf" that the back edge of the floor sits on got me what I needed at the rear, but the front edge could only be corrected by re-bending the lip that abuts the wheelhouse to allow for the .25" movement. It wasn't pretty but this seam will be coated with sealer and will not be visible.
Speaking of sealer... have you stopped to consider just how much of that stuff they used at the seams in the trunk? I've pulled out globs the size of baseballs before. When it comes to replacing it the tendency is to cut the tip of the tube of filler to leave a .5" hole or so, and carefully running a bead down in the seam, trying to be as neat as you can. Seems to me to be accurate you would just rip the plastic snout off the sealer tube, empty half the tube at your starting point and proceed with a 1.5" bead until you use up the tube, about 10" later, following it up by "smoothing" it out with a spreader that has 2 or 3 "character" notches cut out in it. Just how much sealer would be required to do the job correctly?
Back to it... I got the fit I wanted and with the panels in place I secured them with a couple of those "Cleco"(?) things. I know screws are cheaper but with taking the panels in and out as often as is required to do the job, the Cleco things work great. With the floors in place I crawled under the car and with a marker outlined the frame rails and all other "brackets" that the floor will be "spot welded" to. With that done I put the floor halves on the sawhorses and put a dot, within the markings, where I wanted each weld to go. I spaced them about 3 or 4" apart and referred back to the cars frame rails for the portions of the supports that would get welds. After that was the task of drilling the hole for the spot welds... 112 .25" holes. That doesn't include requirement for welding along the front and back edge or to the wheelhouses or extensions! After that the only thing left was the large diameter holes. With the hole saws I bought 2 weeks ago, they went smoothly. Smoothed all edges around all the holes and those floors are ready for installation!!!
With the day still young I started planning the replacement of the rear panel area that has the attachment holes for the P-L-Y-M-O-U-T-H letters. As mentioned before, these holes had been filled and in the process that area of the panel had been warped. With a perfect replacement trimmed to the size I was comfortable with, I held it tight against the car and scribed a line around it to mark the area to be cut out. I was a bit nervous about this cut... this was a large visible area and my experience is limited. But, remembering those immortal words of Tom Cruise in Risky Business, "sometimes you just gotta say... what the frick." I was careful to stay within the line and all went well. I will say that the chore of fitting the replacement in the hole left and tacking it in place was a very long and tedious chore. I was spent after that... and that's where I left things.
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Week 19
Next came the grinding. I've been trying to master the use of the cutoff wheel as a grinder(I read it somewhere that it was good to use... probably written by someone who knows about as much as I do) and after a few inches it did seem like it was good job. I quickly figured out that patients was the key to its use. Spent at least an hour Saturday and another one Sunday morning getting the welds down flush. Didn't look too bad.
At the last show I was at I bought a gallon of this POR15 paint stripper. Thought I'd give it a try on the rear area that I had just finished. The sprayer supplied with the stuff was a piece of garbage, it actually blew bubbles INTO the liquid with each squeeze of the trigger, so, found a good sprayer and proceeded to follow the directions. Discovered so things. There are three distinctive degrees of pain in this area of the car... some very cheap black paint over the original blue enamel, protected from the elements by the black, and the factory yellow paint on the patch which I know for a fact has baked in the sun for most of 27 years. Following the directions to the letter, the black paint literally fell off while the blue took the directed two applications, fifteen minutes apart, and indeed came off. The yellow, on the other hand, was not be affected by two, three or even the forth coat. I would venture to say that 20 coats later this yellow paint will still be there. My review of the stripper is favorable. It has little or no odor and did a fairly good job on the one try. However, you guys had me a little concerned about residue left in the nooks and crannies so I found myself rinsing and scrubbing the creases with a toothbrush. Now if I could just find a spray bottle to put the Windex in.
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Week 20
With the new hood on my head, got out on Sunday and blasted up a storm. Cleaned up all around the trunk area including the inner wheel well housings, the trunk torsion bar brackets, the inside and outside of the rear panel(being careful, of coarse), and all surfaces that will be receiving the new trunk panels. I hit down inside the rear frame rails quickly just to knock off the loose rust or crud that might be there. These frame rails are in excellent shape with over 50% of the natural gray color still showing. I also went up and around the remaining three sides of the rear glass channel just for cleanup and hopefully reveal any EXTRA rust through that might not normally be seen. Luckily, no surprises... just two spots I've known about all along. Afterwards I treated all bare surfaces with Oxi-Solve, including heavier than usual applications down in the frame rails. Went through 4, 50 lb bags of sand fairly quickly, about an hour and a half of blasting, but the real time consuming part was cleaning up. Blew and vacuumed on the car for over an hour and swept and shoveled the stuff off the concrete for another hour and a half. I have a spot out back of a shed in the yard that I have been putting the used sand... I just noticed that the bottom 10" of the back wall of the shed is "under ground" now.
Last week I mentioned that I had warped the rear panel with a little too much heat from the welder. Well I'm happy to report that the "irregularities" were 90% removed with a little hammer and dolly work, however, I'll still be punished for my poor practices with extra body work to get things just right.
Listen... I am this close (speaking while holding thumb and forefinger within an sixteenth of each other and squinting eyes to view the gap between them) to welding in all rear replacement sheet metal... excluding quarters.. outer wheel well housings..... well... I feel real good about things!!!
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